Celadon Quail Hatching Eggs - Educational Guide
Fresh & Fertile Celadon Quail Hatching Eggs
Celadon Quail Hatching Egg Reviews
Celadon colored eggs are laid by Coturnix quail that carry the recessive CE celadon gene which produces blue-toned speckled eggs. The eggs are colored by natural dyes called biliverdin and biliverdin chelate with zinc. They are synthesized in the shell gland of the oviduct and then deposited on the eggshell, with the greatest onset of coloring at the end of the eggshell formation which is why the blue coloring is present through to the inside of the eggshells. The eggshell color varies from a very light blue to a deep teal and all similar shades in between.
These eggs are truly special and rare as not all Coturnix will lay blue eggs. Some hens that hatch from celadon eggs may not lay blue eggs, these quail would be heterozygous and will only carry one copy of the CE gene. In order to maintain the Celadon egg color, both parents must carry two copies the CE gene which make them homozygous. Our quail are selectively bred to attain the beautiful shades of blue that is presented in their eggs. Our flock is also genetically diversified to prevent inbreeding complications and abnormalities. They come in a wide variety of feather patterns such as Pharaoh, Tibetan, Tibetan Tuxedo, Scarlett, Scarlett Tuxedo and Rosetta. Occasionally, we see a Silver in our mix. Coturnix quail are the easiest species of quail to raise as they require very little space, are very prolific layers and have a fast maturity rate. They go from being an egg to laying eggs in 2 months!
Celadon eggs are much more sensitive than the traditional brown speckled eggs. They have thinner shells and can easily be damaged if improperly handled. These beautiful blue eggs are undeniably affected by incorrect incubation parameters such as temperature and humidity fluctuations. Celadon Qual Eggs can easily be hatched in a clean, meticulously controlled and efficiently monitored environment.
*Although we verify fertility, hatch weekly, routinely rotate our flock and ensure intact packaging, we DO NOT guarantee hatch rates due to events beyond our control such as shipment handling/delays, inclement weather and incubation methods and/or conditions. Please be mindful that hatching shipped eggs greatly differ than hatching eggs from your own stock. If you find that there are eggs that failed to developed, this does not mean they were not fertile. All of the eggs we ship are from the very same stock that we hatch out weekly with 85-100% hatch rates. We do not sell infertile eggs and should a fertility issue arise at our homestead, we will not list eggs. We do not offer refunds on this item but please contact us if you have any issues. By purchasing this item, you agree to our policy.
Incubation Information Guide
When your eggs arrive, unpack gently to prevent damage and place upright on an egg carton/egg tray. There are many articles that proclaim that it is necessary to allow eggs to rest at room temperature for 24 hours prior to incubation. Contrary to popular belief, we have not had success with this method. We suggest that upon unpacking your eggs and candling for damage, they should immediately be set in incubation sitting upright (pointy side down) without turning for 3 days. This prevents further aging of the eggs and also allows the eggs to settle while incubating. Your incubator should already be set up, calibrated and regulated at this point. Your incubator should also have an automatic turner, calibrated hygrometer and thermometer. There are many methods of incubation which vary due to the type of incubator you are using, it’s integrity, your geographical location, current weather and season. Dry incubation has been our best method at a temperature of 99.5°F , 30%-35% RH (as high as 40% for dry climates) from days 0-14 and humidity is only raised to 60-70% for lockdown on day 15 until day 20 (for late hatchers). Most chicks will hatch between days 16 and 18 but we suggest waiting until day 20 should you have any remaining unhatched eggs. For hatching we recommend you remove your turner and lay the eggs down on their sides and hatch on perforated rubber shelf liner. This method has given us 85-100% hatch rates from our own healthy, thriving flock and incubators that are constantly quality-checked and maintain superior integrity. You may find other methods that work better for you, your equipment and/or geography.
Chick Care & Rearing Guide
Prior to hatching, you should have a brooder set up away from drafts or windows. The chicks will require heat for a few weeks depending on your location and season. Your chicks can be removed from the incubator once they are dry and fluffy and it is best to wait until all eggs hatch to remove them. We suggest you do not attempt to feed or water your chicks if they are still in the incubator. They can survive without food/water for 24 hours. The heat source we like to use is a 100W red light bulb starting at 95°F and lowering 5 degrees every week for 6 weeks as the red light will prevent cannibalism which is common. Your celadon quail chicks will thrive on a high protein diet starter diet. We currently feed a 30% protein diet and anything lower could cause hypoglycemia and/or death. They will need their food ground down and spread out onto the flooring. They also need a no-drown water dish or river rocks in a dish to prevent drowning with WARM water so that they do not get chilled. Flooring should be a non-skid type of flooring to prevent leg splaying; we suggest to refrain from using bedding for the first week so the chicks can easily find their food. We typically set this up on the same day our eggs go into lockdown for hatching so that the brooder has time to warm up to the correct temperature of 95°F. When in doubt, the chicks will tell you if they are too cold (huddled directly under heat source) or too hot (Gullar fluttering and away from the heat source). Please keep in mind that this is our method and is intended to be a guide and not specific instructions on rearing chicks.